The oven has been busy this week – baking spiced aubergines, trays of roast vegetables with eggs and a layered dish of dal and sweet potatoes. There have been frying pans of peppers and wheat on the hob, and sesame-coated cheese for bright citrus salads. It was only as we ladled out the last of the layers of baked dal onto our plates that I realised the kitchen hasn’t seen a joint of meat all week.
Feta with spinach and blood orange
Serves 2
sesame seeds 3 tbsp
runny honey 2 tbsp
feta 250g
blood oranges 3
olive oil 30ml
white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
spinach leaves 100g
Toast the sesame seeds in a dry, shallow pan till golden then remove from the heat. Brush the honey on the surface of the feta then place the cheese flat side down in the sesame seeds and press gently. Turn the cheese over, brush the surface generously with honey then turn and pat down gently to cover with seeds.
Place the sesame-covered cheese on a piece of tin foil then place in a baking dish. Bake for 10 minutes until the cheese has started to soften.
While the cheese bakes, remove the peel from two of the oranges with a very sharp knife, then cut them into thickish slices, about six per fruit. Squeeze the remaining orange into a bowl, and add the olive oil, vinegar, a little salt and some black pepper, coarsely ground, and then the sliced oranges.
Wash the spinach and dry in a salad spinner, then toss with the orange slices and their dressing. Divide the spinach and orange slices between two plates, then spoon over some of the orange and olive oil dressing. Cut the warm feta in half, and place one piece on each plate.
Baked eggs and vegetables
I have used courgettes and long plump banana shallots, but there is no reason why you couldn’t use other vegetables, such as aubergines, too. I used duck eggs here, which are slightly larger than hen’s but any large free-range egg is fine.
Serves 2
banana shallots 4
olive oil 3 tbsp
courgettes 2
garlic 2 cloves
cherry or small tomatoes 800g
thyme sprigs 6
dried oregano 1 tsp
duck eggs 2
Peel the shallots, then slice them in half from root to tip. Warm the olive oil in a heavy based shallow pan, then lightly brown the shallots on both sides. Keep the heat moderate. Halve then quarter the courgettes lengthways and cut into large dice. Peel and finely slice the garlic. Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6.
When the shallots are soft, push them to one side of the pan and add the courgettes and sliced garlic to the other, letting them lightly colour. Cut the tomatoes in half. When the courgettes are pale gold, add the tomatoes, halved, and the sprigs of thyme and oregano, and let them cook for a minute or two then transfer the whole pan to the oven.
Bake the vegetables for 25 minutes until the tomatoes are soft and the vegetables are truly tender. Remove the pan from the oven and make two small, shallow hollows among the vegetables, then crack an egg into each of them. Return the vegetables and eggs to the oven for 4-5 minutes, until the eggs are just set.
Aubergine chermoula
A baked, spiced aubergine with the addition of both preserved and fresh lemons.
Serves 2
coriander leaves and stems 30g
preserved lemons 30g
red chilli 1 small, hot
green chilli 1 small, hot
cumin seeds 1 tbsp
coriander seeds 1 tsp
ground cayenne a pinch
ground ginger 1 tsp
ground paprika 1 tsp
saffron a pinch
lemons juice of 2, small
olive oil 100ml
aubergines 2 medium-sized
Put the coriander leaves and stems in a blender or food processor. Slice the preserved lemons in half and add them to the coriander together with the red and green chillies (seeds removed if you are worried about the heat), the cumin, coriander seeds, cayenne, ginger, paprika and saffron. Squeeze in the juice of the fresh lemons and add the olive oil, then process to a fairly smooth, loose paste.
Peel the aubergines, then cut deep slits into the flesh in four places, taking care not to slice right through. Place the aubergines in a sealable plastic food bag then pour over the marinade paste, turning them to cover the outside. Leave the aubergines to marinate for at least an hour, two or three if you can, rolling them over in the marinade from time to time.
Heat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Tip the aubergines and their marinade into a shallow baking dish and cook in the oven for about 45 minutes. Baste the aubergines now and again until they become dark and soft. You may need to cover them with tin foil. Ideally, your aubergines should have a slight brown crust on the surface. Carefully lift onto plates and cut into thick slices, like a steak.
Freekeh with peppers
I have been using a lot of freekeh lately, liking its mild roasted flavour and chewy texture. Most of the major stores have it, but it can also be found easily in Middle Eastern food shops.
Serves 4
freekeh 150g
yellow peppers 2
olive oil 3 tbsp
water 4 tbsp
preserved artichokes 250g
dill fronds 20g
coriander leaves 3 tbsp, chopped
lemon juice of ½
olive oil 4 tbsp
Put the freekeh in a bowl, cover it with warm water and set aside for 10 minutes.
Slice the yellow peppers in half, tear out the core and any seeds, then slice each half into four strips. Warm the olive oil in a heavy based shallow pan, then add the peppers and let them cook over a moderate heat and covered with a lid for 10-15 minutes or so until tender and silky. Pour in the water and shake the pan, letting any sweet residue from the peppers dissolve in the water. Season lightly.
While the peppers are cooking, boil the freekeh in deep, lightly salted water for 12 minutes till nutty and giving (I like it a little al dente and chewy, but cook it to your own liking).
Slice the artichokes in half and add to the pan with the peppers. Finely chop the dill and add it together with the chopped coriander, the lemon juice and the olive oil, to the pan. Warm briefly, then drain the freekeh and toss with the peppers and the sweet, lemony juices in pan.
Baked dal and sweet potato
Layers of dal and soft sweet potatoes, baked with a crisp garlic bread crust make for a deeply warming dinner. Layers of comfort here.
Serves 4
split yellow lentils 250g
stock or water 800ml
ground turmeric 1 tsp
sweet potatoes 700g
For the spiced oil
onion 1
olive oil 1 tbsp
garlic 2 cloves
chilli flakes ¼ tsp
cinnamon stick ½
ground cayenne 1¼ tsp
For the crust
baguette 100g
olive oil 100ml
parsley 15g
garlic 2 cloves
Put the lentils in a saucepan, cover with the stock or water, add the turmeric and bring to the boil. Lower the heat, partially cover with a lid and leave to simmer for about 15-20 minutes, until the lentils are tender enough to crush. The exact time will depend on your lentils, their variety and their age.
Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into thick slices. Steam or boil them till tender enough to crush, about 7-10 minutes. Drain carefully, so they do not crumble.
Peel the onion and chop it quite finely, then soften it in the oil over a moderate heat. When the onion is quite soft and pale gold in colour, add the garlic, peeled and thinly sliced, chilli flakes, cinnamon stick and ground cayenne. Cook for a couple of minutes only, taking care the spices don’t burn, stirring regularly, till all is fragrant, then remove from the heat and pour into the drained lentils. Add salt to taste. Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6.
Using a deep baking dish, place a layer of the steamed sweet potatoes on the base, then half of the dal mixture. Add another layer of sweet potatoes, then the remaining dal.
To make the crust, pour the olive oil into a blender or food processor, add the parsley and the peeled garlic cloves. Process to a brilliant green paste.
Cut the baguette into roughly eight slices, then place them, snugly, on the surface of the dal and sweet potatoes. Brush them generously with the herb and garlic oil then bake for 15 minutes till the bread is crisp and pale golden brown.
