Second only to two scoops rice, mayo-rich mac salad is a cornerstone of Hawaiian cuisine. No proper plate lunch is without it: it’s a creamy and comforting side at diners, potlucks, lunch wagons, drive-ins, and picnics. What makes a dish that is so elemental — it’s literally 90% mayo and starch — so craveable? Some believe the origins of mac salad in Hawai‘i came from European potato salad, which classically trained chefs cooked for the wealthy haole families who ran the plantations. Local workers then added cheaper dried macaroni to the potatoes.
Much like a mouthful of rice, the soothing blandness of mac salad helps break up a meal, contrasting with a saucy main dish like adobo or beef stew. I guess if you’re not from Hawaii, you either love it or hate it, depending on how you feel about mayo. But I’ve also seen supposed mayo haters converted, too, so who really knows.
There are many recipes for mac salad out there, but I believe this one, which I serve at Tin Roof (and which you can also find in my cookbook, Cook Real Hawai‘i), is the peak of the form. Some people like to add peas, ham, tuna, celery, imitation crab, things like that, but I don’t mess — simplicity is king. I do add potatoes and boiled eggs because I feel they complement the macaroni without being too distracting. Grated carrots are for a touch of color. What I can’t stress enough is that you must overcook the macaroni until the noodles are fat and soft, definitely not al dente. It seems crazy when you do it, but it’s what helps the pasta soak up the mayo and become super flavorful. For mayonnaise, it’s got to be Best Foods (sold as Hellmann’s east of the Rockies). No dispute on that.
The first time you make mac salad, the almost 2-to-1 ratio of mayo to starch also seems crazy, but just like when you make chicken or egg salad, the two ingredients become one hom*ogenous thing as they sit in the fridge. Done right, mac salad should be so creamy and lush that you have to take a drink of water after a few bites! As a cherry on top, I like to serve chilled mac salad over a bed of shredded iceberg, which is often done at local diners. To me, it adds a touch of class — and some welcome crunchy freshness. — Sheldon Simeon
